Sunday, October 19, 2014

Los Angeles

Welcome to Los Angeles- The City of Angels. With towering palm trees swaying above, it's time to set out and see the best of what this city has to offer. There are miles of beautiful beaches, vast mountain ranges, culture rich museums, excellent shopping and of course . . . Hollywood.

LA is the second most populated city in the US and has the third largest Mexican population in the world including Mexico (Los Angeles = the Angels in spanish). The city is culturally diverse with nearly half the population born outside of the US.



The first thing I heard when planning our US trip was don't spend too long in LA as there's nothing to do there etc. etc.  I will start by saying this is not true at all and we thoroughly enjoyed our time in LA.  How long you spend in LA will depend on what you want to see and do. We spent 5 nights and did trips out to different parts of the city and to Southern California/ San Diego.

Getting There

Most will arrive in LA via LAX- the huge international airport.  There are also four other commercial airports in LA.  You can take the LAX flyaway bus to most major areas- Downtown, Hollywood, Santa Monica etc.  One way ticket $8.  Look for the green sign that says 'flyaway, buses ... ' at each terminal.

Taxis take around 30 mins from LAX to downtown LA in good traffic and cost around $70USD.  Unfortunately traffic is often terrible making the trip much more expensive.

Again, car hire may be a much more economical option.  Post on car hire in the US is coming soon.


Geography

LA is a great base from which to travel to other areas of California. Many flights from Australia land in or connect via LAX so if you have a long enough layover you should get out and explore.  The city itself is 1215 km² in size (vs. Melbourne 35km² or Sydney 25 km²)- aka. absolutely huge.  Because of this, I found it was extremely handy to have a car.

I know what you are thinking... driving on the other side of the road eeeeeek.  If I did it so can you! LA is actually a great place to practice your driving.


There is lots of districts in LA.  The main areas we visited were
  • Hollywood
  • Downtown LA
  • Beverley Hills/ West Hollywood (WEHO)
  • Santa Monica/ Venice Beach
Getting Around

Public transport in LA is doable but a car is a better option. We negotiated the city's buses and trains but found we did a lot of walking. Buses are not particularly frequent, expect 10-30 minutes in touristy areas and 30-90 minutes away from tourist areas. Because of the city's sheer size, even when getting off at the nearest stop you can find yourself walking a km or two.  Many bus services finish in the early evening and services are reduced on weekends.

Buses and trains are run by the LA metro service. The train service was useful to get to Universal studios (red line- Universal City stop) and to some parts of Hollywood otherwise I found it wasn't really going anywhere that we were!  There's a good map of the different lines here.

Firstly- do yourself a favour and download the HOPSTOP app.  This app will save your life if you are using public transport.  Just plug in your destination, time and voila- it will give you step by step instructions in line with current timetables.

Things to do

If you aren't sure what you want to do, want an easy way to get around and have limited time, the hop on hop off bus by starline tours is an easy way to get started.  I'm usually against them but many of the tourist sights in LA are easy to see this way. There are a few different connecting routes depending on what you want to see - Hollywood, Santa Monica, downtown LA etc.


Hollywood

Hollywood & Highland is a major landmark in Hollywood- located on the corner of Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue.  There is a large shopping centre here and red line train station (Hollywood & Highland station).  It is also home to the Chinese Theatre and Dolby Theatre.

The Hollywood Walk of Fame
  • The walk of fame runs for 2.1 kms on Hollywood Boulevard (from North Gower Street to North La Brea avenue), a short segment of Marshfield Way (between Hollywood and La Brea) and 0.7 km of Vine Street (between Yucca Street and Sunset Boulevard).
  • Wander along and appreciate the talent that has graced Hollywood over the years.


Dolby Theatre
  • Formerly known as the Kodak theatre
  • Hosts the Acadamy awards and now the Oscars (since 2011)
  • 6801 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood (part of the Hollywood/highland shopping mall)
Grauman's/ TCL Chinese Theatre
  • Famous theatre that has hosted the premiere of many famous films such as star wars.
  • Now hosts the largest IMAX theatre in the world.
  • Check out the signatures, handprints, footprints etc. of celebrities in the concrete blocks out the front.
  • 6801 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood
The Egyptian Theatre
  • Site of the first Hollywood film premiere, currently undergoing restoration works. 
  • 6706 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood.

Sunset strip
  • The Sunset Strip is an area of sunset boulevard running for 2.4 kms in West Hollywood (WEHO).
  • Famous for its nightclubs and massive advertising billboards.
  • Viper room
    • Damous nightclub in WEHO partly owned by Johnny Depp until 1994
    • Place where River Phoenix died of a drug overdose
    • metal, punk rock and alternative
    • 8852 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood
Star homes tour
  • The original movie stars' homes tour is run by Starline tours.  The tour visits the homes and former homes of famous celebrities and also passes the sunset strip, chinese theatre, rodeo drive, the hollywood sign.
  • We didn't do this tour as a friend did it just before we travelled and said she did not see much except for large gates/ driveways.  That said I heard a friend of a friend saw Bill Cosby putting his rubbish bin out (I'd pay $47 for any celebrity sighting haha)
  • $47 adult (cheaper online), duration 2 hours

The Hollywood Sign
  • The most convenient spot to see the sign? Hollywood & Highland Centre
    • Take the red line train here and look out for framed  views of the Hollywood  sign throughout the shopping centre.
  • An easy spot if you have limited time plus additional views of LA- try Mulholland Drive.
    • Coming from Hollywood, turn right into Mulholland drive. After passing Runyon Canyon Park (on your right) slow down and it is the next lookout on your right.
    • Parking area fits only 6 cars so can be tricky.  Park your car and walk up the stairs.
  • Griffith Park Observatory
    • Check out the view from the carpark.
    • 2800 E Observatory Rd, Los Angele
  • The best place to see the sign?  3000 Canyon Lake drive (in a residential area) 
    • You will need a car to get here. Take the US 101, exit at Barham Boulevard. 
    • Turn right to Lake Hollywood drive. Follow it around the resevoir (it's a bit confusing, lots of small roads in this super rich housing estate) until Tahoe drive.
    • Turn Left at Tahor Drive, turn right into Canyon Lake Drive. 
    • Park near the dog park and walk up the hill to the unobstructed viewing spot on the left. 
    • I actually loved the drive around this area, it was very cool albeit the hazardous skinny roads.

Griffith Park Observatory
  • Check out the science and space related displays (closed Mondays).
  • Come here for the amazing view of LA, including the Hollywood sign.
  • Cost- Free!
  • 2800 E Observatory Rd, Los Angeles

Runyon Canyon Park
  • I absolutely loved hiking and running through Runyon Canyon when we were in LA.
  • Runyon Canyon is another well known place to spot celebrities.  Check out this website where photo evidence of sightings are updated regularly!
  • Cost- Free!
  • 2000 N. Fuller Ave., Los Angeles (southern entrance).
Getty Centre
  • The Getty museum is known for its architecture, gardens and amazing view of LA.
  • Cost- Free!
  • 1200 Getty Centre Drive, LA.


 Hollywood forever cemetery
  • Many old school famous actors, musicians and celebrities have been buried here.
  • Book early to attend the outdoor cinema, Cinespia. Saturdays at 7pm $10USD pp.
  • 6000 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles

Beverley Hills
  • This is where the rich and famous come to shop.  The golden triangle, bounded by Wilshire, Santa Monica Boulevard and Canon Drive, is the shopping area where if you have to ask the price, you can't afford it!  Definitely worth a window shop and a wander.
  • Rodeo Drive
    • The main strip is between Santa Monica Boulevard in the north and Wilshire Boulevard in the south.
  • Check out the lobby of the Beverley Wilshire Hotel, the hotel where Pretty Woman was set.
    • 9500 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills
  • Try the cupcake ATM at Sprinkles, where you can get baked goods from the ATM 24/7! Scary!
    • 9635 S Santa Monica Blvd, Beverly Hills
  • Have lunch at the Ivy and do some celeb spotting (see Restaurant section below)


Downtown LA

Olvera Street
  • This street is part of the historic centre of LA and is part of the Los Angeles Plaza historic district, El Pueblo de Los Angeles State Historic Park. The alley is a romantic vision of old mexico and a popular tourist attraction. 
  • It is filled with trinket stores and Mexican restaurants.
  • 125 Paseo De La Plaza, Los Angeles

Cathedral of our Lady of the Angels
  • Modern cathedral hat was build to replace the Cathedral of Saint Vibiana , damaged in an earthquake in 1994.
  • 555 W Temple St, Los Angeles,
Chinatown/ Little Tokyo
  • LA has a large Chinatown area including a market, Chinese specialty stores and restaurants.
  • Little Tokyo  aka J-Town next to Chinatown has Japanese shops restaurants and museums.
 Fashion District
  • Warehouses, markets and designer knock offs can all be found in the LA fashion district.
  • Visit the infamous Santee Alley for knock offs and counterfeit goods.
  • 110 E 9th St A1175, Los Angeles

Universal Studios Hollywood
  • What is a trip to LA without visiting the original Universal Studios!
  • Don't miss the studio tour (do this first because the lines get massive).
  • Check the timetable for when the shows are on.  The Waterworld stunt show is pretty good (better than the movie Waterworld ironically).
  • 1 day pass $92USD, front of the line pass $139USD (buy this, it will honestly save you hours of waiting in line), VIP pass $299USD. 
  • Check out the skip the line section of undercovertourist for crowd calendars, tour plans and a downloadable app with ride wait times.
  • front of the line passes give you one priority entry to each ride (buy in advance because they sell out)
  • or booked a combined bus ticket/entry via starline tours.


 Santa Monica
  • The main street with restaurants and chain store shopping is along the 3rd street promenade
    • I found there were lots of good clothes shops here and all of the major retail outlet chains.
    • Don't miss Kitson the quirky gift store that celebrities love to frequent.
      • 395 Santa Monica Place Suite #120, Santa Monica
      • 395 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica
    • Check out Santa Monica Pier, it has an amusement park, restaurants, Santa Monica Pier Aquarium and bicycle/rollerblade hire etc.





  • Hire a bike from the Santa Monica Bike Centre on Santa Monica Pier
    • standard bike $20USD 2 hours, $25USD half day, $30 full day. 
    • ride south along the bike paths to Venice beach, Marina Del Ray and down to Rodondo beach.  This will take you around an hour 1 way without stopping.

  • Check out the original muscle beach (on the south side of Santa Monica Pier)
    • In the 1930s exercise equipment was installed on the beach here which became a popular home for famous body builders and gymnasts.
    • Today the original muscle beach serves acrobats, gymnasts etc. and body builders have moved on to muscle beach venice (see below).
Venice
  • Venice Beach
    • Venture along the ocean front walk to find massage parlours, fortune tellers, hippies, handmade crafts, street performers, souvenir shops, a freakshow and lots and lots of people smoking weed.
  • Robin's sculpture gallery
    • Have a look at Robin Murez's sculpture garden.  Also hosts concerts and performances etc.
    • 1632 Albert Kinney Boulevard, Venice CA.
  • Venice Muscle Beach
    • The famous beachfront open air 'gym' where bodybuilders and fitness enthusiasts work out and put on a good show for passers by.  Relocated from the original muscle beach in Santa Monica.
    • 1800 Ocean Front Walk, Venice CA.
  • Be careful because Venice can be a little dicey at night.



Warner Brother's VIP Tour
  • Don't miss the chance to enter real life movie sets, see props, costumes and cars from popular movies and TV shows.
  • $49USD + $7USD parking, duration 2 hours 15 mins, book early.
  • 3400 Riverside Dr, Burbank, CA


Attend a real tv filming as an audience member
  • Attend a filming of your favourite show in the flesh. Year round shows such as Conan, the today show with Jay Leno and Ellen are filmed in LA.  Sometimes you can get standby tickets on the day if you follow the show's protocols.
  • Try individual show website or tvtickets.com (most tickets are released 30 days in advance) 

Sports
  • See the LA Lakers play NBA at the staples centre, tickets are very expensive!  Alternatively you can see the LA clippers- a rising team in the NBA. Tickets will be slightly cheaper than the Lakers.
  • The LA Dodgers play baseball at Dodger stadium.

Celebrity hunt
  • We know that there are many celebrities frequenting LA, the question is - where can we find them?
  • My online research has allowed me to come to the conclusion that celebrities can be found anywhere.  They are just people and fortunately like to eat out, go shopping, go to the supermarket etc. like the rest of us!  If they aren't Lady Gaga, celebrities often don't have an entourage following them and can be hard to spot! If you see someone who looks a little familiar and you can't work out why- they are probably a B grade celebrity you have seen on TV.
  • Other places the internet suggests you may have success- Nate 'N Al's (Deli), Kitson (shop), The Ivy (restaurant), Runyon Canyon (park),  Sunset Plaza- Cafe Med or Il Sole, and restaurants in Malibu such as Nobi and Taverna Tony's (many celebrities live in Malibu).


Shopping
  • Beverley Hills
    • The Beverly Centre
      • mid to high end shopping with macy's, bloomingdales etc.
      • 8500 Beverley Boulevard, Beverley Hills
    • Rodeo drive and 'the golden triangle' (see above section on Beverley hills)
  • WEHO
    • Small quirky boutiques and second hand shops can be found along Melrose avenue between La Brea in the east and Fairfax in the west (1.6km)
  • The Grove
    • Midrange shopping with chain stores, Macy's etc.
    • Has outdoor restaurants, cinemas etc. The Cheesecake Factory has a store here - awesome value chain restaurant with delicious food (and cheesecake of course).
    • 189 The Grove Dr, Los Angeles
  • Santa Monica
    • Check out the chain stores on 3rd street promenade (parallel to the beach a few streets back)
  • Venice Beach
    • Check out Main street and Abbot Kinney Boulevard for boutiques
  • Other large malls include Hollwood & Highland (6801 Hollywood Boulevard) and Century City (10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, LA).



Accomodation

First you need to consider what district you want to stay in. Options are basically
  • Hollywood- central, good for those who plan on nightclubbing, good access to public transport. Not many nice places to eat.
  • West Hollywood (WEHO)- most of the major hotels are here, some with amazing views. fairly good public transport access.
  • Beverley Grove/ Central LA- centred around the Grove  shopping centre, there is lots of shopping and dining well placed in this area.
  • Santa Monica- right on the beach, great family area. Further away from the Hollywood tourist sights, expensive.
  • Downtown - cheaper but more of a business district than the main city area. Has some dicey areas in terms of safety, especially at night. Better access to major public transport systems.
  • Beverley Hills- fairly close to the beach and Hollywood, poor access to public transport.
  • Other beachside areas- Marina Del Ray, Manhattan Beach, Redondo Beach.- lovely areas, but getting further and further away from Hollywood.
We stayed in an airbnb apartment in Hollywood. I really enjoyed the experience and was it was really convenient and well priced.  Even in LA, hotels are quite expensive for the limited amenities you will get.  Next time I will save up the cash and stay in Santa Monica. I have my eye on Shutters on the Beach!  I have had friends stay at The Standard downtown also which looks great and has a well known rooftop bar.







Restaurants and nightlife
  • The Ivy
    • Book ahead to secure a spot for lunch at the Ivy, a spot well known to frequent celebrities.
    • One of my favourite restaurants in the US!  Make sure you dress nicely and arrive on time.  When we arrived our table wouldn't be ready for 15 minutes so were were offered free champagne in an amazing room filled with fresh roses.  One of the best meals and cocktails I have ever had.
    • 113 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles (there is also a franchise in Santa Monica now)

  • Del Frisco's Grille Santa Monica
    • nice pub food in a great spot
    • 1551 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica
  • Craft
    • High end restaurant renowned as one of the best in LA.
    • 10100 Constellation Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
  • Cleo
    • Contemporary mediterranean food.
    • 1717 Vine St (inside The Redbury), Los Angeles
  • In 'N Out Burger
    • Don't miss LA's legendary fast food chain. My boyfriend nearly had road rage in the carpark here after waiting in the driveway for 45 minutes to get a park! but it was well worth the trip.
  • Farmer's market
    • fresh produce, food stalls and restaurants located next to the Grove shopping centre.
    • 6333 W 3rd St, Los Angeles
  • Kitchen 24
    • Great brunch and homely food in Hollywood. Well priced
    • 1608 North Cahuenga Boulevard, Hollywood.
  • The Rooftop Bar at The Standard hotel
    • 550 S Flower St, Los Angeles
  • Writer's Room (bar)
    • one of the hottest new bars in Hollywood with a vibe that mixes speakeasy, modernism and art deco.  Get yourself onto the list prior.
    • 6685 Hollywood Blvd
  • The Spare Room (bar)
    • Classic cocktails served by waitresses in Gatsby era dresses
    • Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles,
  • Harvard & Stone (bar)
    • Blues and rock n roll music with American craft cocktails. Make sure you adhere to the dress code.
    • 5221 Hollywood Boulevard
Other tips

Be cautious when traveling around LA as it is well known that many parts of the city can be dangerous.  Be sensible and avoid dangerous areas on foot, especially at night.  Wikipedia suggests you should avoid the following areas
  • Skid Row (downtown, near the main Greyhound bus station- take a taxi if you need to get a bus from here)
  • Pico-Union, Westlake, Boyle Heights, and South Central
  • San Fernando Valley region- avoid the neighborhoods of Pacoima, Panorama City, Arleta, Van Nuys, Canoga Park, North Hills, North Hollywood (northern half), and Northridge (southern half) on foot.

Trips from LA
  • Disneyland, Anaheim
    • $96USD per day for a 1 day ticket aged 10+, ages 3-9 $90. Cheaper with each additional day.
    • Approx 30-40 mins drive from downtown LA (without traffic). Many bus companies offer tours or you can also take the train.
     
  • Take a drive down to Malibu or Santa Barbara (see my pacific coast post here)
  • We also visited San Diego & Orange County- I'll cover these in another post.

LA has plenty to keep anyone busy is the heart and soul of beautiful California.  Enjoy being a tourist and soak up everything Los Angeles has to offer.

Sample Itinerary

Day 1- Hop on hop off bus or star homes tour, Hollywood walk of fame, sunset strip, chinese theatre.
Day 2- Santa Monica/ Venice
Day 3 - Find the Hollywood sign, Beverley Hills, shopping, the Grove/ famers market.
Day 4- Day trip / Universal Studios or Warner Brothers VIP tour
Day 5- See downtown LA, hang out in Malibu, see a tv show filming etc.




Friday, September 19, 2014

Pacific Coast Highway California

Highway 1 is the best decision you will ever make for travelling from LA to San Francisco and beyond. 
 
 


 
This famous route is one of the most stunning scenic drives in the world and is unmissable.  Have a practice driving around LA then you will be ready to brave the right hand side of the windy cliffside roads (think great ocean road).

Geography

We travelled from downtown LA to San Francisco airport on highway 1.  The southernmost portion of the highway ends in Orange County. Make a stop at Newport beach especially if you are a 'The OC' fan.  The highway terminates above San Francisco in Mendocino county.  It stretches just over 1000kms in its entirety.



Planning your trip

The first thing you need to decide is how long you will spend driving highway 1.  Most people will drive from San Francisco to LA.  We drove San Fran to LA which is an easier drive (non cliff side) but supposedly the view is better  travelling south. I can vouch for driving north as an easy drive and the views were still spectacular.  Going southbound you are more likely to have the sun in your eyes vs. rarely travelling north.

Recommendations for how many days to spend are highly varied. We tried to do the drive in two days which was not enough to have decent stops.

There are many options for the drive, this wiki guide was extremely helpful.  It also has estimated travel times for separate legs of the trip.
  • There is a fast route: Interstate 5- takes 6.5 hours from  San Fran to LA or vice versa in good traffic without stops)
  • The medium route: Highway 1- 7.5 hours without stops but is more scenic. Includes Santa Barbara and St Luis Obispo
  • The long way with incredible scenery and excellent stops: Highway 1- allow 2 days at a minimum, recommend at least 3 days
Another thing to consider is the fog created by the warm air temperatures and cold pacific ocean. 



June, July and August are the foggy months whilst September and October are supposed to be the nicest time to travel the Pacific Coast.

Make sure you buy a map, and enjoy the good old fashioned road trip!


Where to stop overnight

Where you plan to stop overnight will depend on how many days you are allowing for the drive. We did the trip in two days and stayed in Carmel. It was a good place to stop over if travelling north as it is close to Big Sur and the areas you will probably want to spend more time in.  Another option is Pismo Beach.  I'd add an extra day's stop over north of here before San Francisco- tripadvisor veterans recommend Monterey or Carmel.  If travelling in summer, it is advised to book somewhere to stay in advanced as most accommodation is heavily booked.


Stops on the Pacific Coast Highway (south to north)

  • Malibu
    • Just north of Santa Monica, check out affluent Malibu.  We didn't stop here (I wish we did!)
    • There are 24 beaches, Zuma beach is supposed to be one of the best.

  • Ventura
    • Another great beach town, the promenade along the water is great to cycle/rollerblade along

  • Santa Barbara
    • The "riviera of the west" is a playground for the rich and famous.  Think Noosa crossed with Toorak.
    • Known for its California mission style architecture. The main street is State street- good for a stroll and some window shopping. 
    • Check out the Santa Barbara Mission and its Spanish architecture.
    • Plenty of decent wineries close to the main township along with great beaches.
    • Also known for festivals and events such as the Santa Barbara film festival (celebrities are rife), the Fiesta (Spanish/ Mexican / American indian festival!), summer solstice parade etc.
 
  • San Luis Obispo
    • "slow" as the locals call it, is mainly inland - nestled amongst small volcanic peaks.
    • Check out bubblegum alley- and leave some of your gum. equally gross and cool simultaneously
      • 733-734 Higuera St, St Luis Obispo
    • Madonna Inn
      • famous hotel on the pacific coast with 110 individually decorated and themed rooms, almost like you are in a (weird) fairytale.
      • visit 'the pink room' and the mens bathroom for the famous waterfall urinal!
      • 100 Madonna Road, St Luis Obispo
    • Lots of great hiking and mountain biking

  • Morro Bay (St Luis Obispo)
    • Walk along the ebarcadero and keep your eyes peeled for sealions, sea otters and good old seagulls.
    • Stop for a selfie with Morro rock


  • Cambria
    • We stopped over in Cambria as a halfway point, and it was a good place to stop- you will have Big Sur and all the San Simeon
    • We stayed at Cambria Palms Motel
      • $106 USD per night (on special), was what you would expect for a motel. They did lose our reservation and double book our room - we had booked online through a third party- but eventually sorted things out.
    • Robin's restaurant
      • Famed to be the best in Cambria with options for everyone, book ahead.
      • 4095 Burton Drive, Cambria
  • San Simeon
    • Visit the elephant seal rookery near Piedras Blancas
      • just off highway 1- 4 miles north of Hearst Castle / 12 miles north of Cambria
    • Hearst Castle
      • Not to be missed, Hearst Castle is a mansion built by newspaper baron William Randolf Hearst. It was designed by Julia Morgan between 1919 ad 1947.
      • You can do different tours of "La Cuesta Encantada" (Spanish for “Enchanted Hill), just make sure you book ahead and arrive in time before the last tour (times vary by season).  The movie room makes me really jealous, as does the list of celebrities that Hearst invited regularly to dinner.
      • We did the Grand rooms tour- $25 USD pp, runs for 40 minutes. 
      • 750 Hearst Castle Road, San Simeon




  • Big Sur
    • Big Sur was my favourite part of the drive and has the most beautiful scenery.  Make sure you plan the trip so you can take your time during this part of the trip.
    • Esalan Institute
      • The hot spring baths here are supposed to be amazing
      • 55000 Highway 1, California
    • Before you get to Big Sur you should visit McWay falls/canyon- part of the Julia Pfeiffer Burns national park.


    • Stop for a day hike in Big Sur
      • We tried the highly recommended Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park ($5 per car)
      • The valley view trail was good- 2miles (3.2 kms), wear proper shoes.  Be dwarfed by the massive redwoods and watch out for mountain lions (the tips for avoiding mountain lion/cougar attacks freaked me out a bit but don't worry, attacks are rare) 



    • Nepenthe restaurant
      • Have a coffee or something to eat and soak up the amazing views.  The giftshop shop attached has some really nice things.
      • 48510 Highway 1, Big Sur

    • Bixby Creek Bridge
      • Stop for a photo at the most photographed bridge on the west coast of the US.



  • Point Lobos State Reserve
    • 4 miles south of carmel
    • Lots of short walking trails and a chance to see sealions (we were a bit underwhelmed- they were very far away when we went).  tip- pay the parking fee, it's a long walk trust me!

  • Carmel
    • Explore Ocean avenue, the main street of Carmel where Clint Eastwood was the former mayor.
    • Carmel Mission
      • Is still functional and is one of the most beautiful Spanish missions.
      • 3080 Rio Road
    • Gravity garden
      • A sculpture garden of balancing rocks created by Jim Needham
      • 97 Corona Road, Carmel
    • The Barnyard
      • a shopping village surrounded by painstakingly manicured gardens
      • 3618 The Barnyard, Carmel

  • Monterey
    • Go shopping on Cannery row (beachfront street in Monterey)- the site of old sardine canning factories.  We did not spend a long time in Monterey due to time constraints.
    • Monterey Bay Aquarium
      • 886 Cannery Row, Monteret
    • Fisherman's wharf
      • best place to see the sealions

  • Santa Cruz
    • Experience the bohemian, americana 60's vibe which lives on here.  Another beautiful beach to enjoy.  I didn't visit here myself.
    • Beach boardwalk amusement park
      • Is the only functional boardwalk amusement park on the west coast of the US, try the wooden rollercoaster- one of the oldest still running.
      • rides $2-4USD, free entry.
    • The Mystery Spot
      • Entertain yourself with the strange illusions, $5 entry
      • 465 Mystery Spot Rd
    • Pacific avenue
      • quirky shopping
    • try a hike- there are lots of great spots nearby

  • San Jose
    • Is the largest city in northern California. I didn't visit here myself.
    • Winchester mystery house
      • Visit the supposedly haunted home of Sarah Winchester (as in Winchester guns) build in 1884.
      • Tours are $16-40 USD pp.
    • Silicon valley
      • Home to many of the world's largest technology headquarters such as apple, google, facebook etc.

  • Half moon bay
    • Seaside down with stunning beaches.


Highway 1 Beyond San Francisco

There are lots of other places to visit north of San Francisco.  Hope I can get to these on the next trip
  • Muir Woods
  • Stinson Beach
  • Johnson Oyster Farm
  • Fort Ross
  • Northern californian wineries
  • Mendocino

If you can afford to- take your time and make lots of stops along the way.  The hikes we did and places we visited were some of my most memorable moments of our USA trip.


Sunday, September 14, 2014

San Francisco


San Francisco is the 14th largest city in the USA, located on the west coast of America in California.  What is San Fran really like?  It is like an eclectic version of Melbourne with cool summers, hippies, gorgeous architecture, steep hills, cable cars (trams) and a homelessness epidemic.




I visited San Francisco at the end of the American summer and the first thing I noticed was how freezing it was!  An emergency shopping trip occurred and a coat was purchased stat.  Lesson number one - do your research and pack appropriately!  It is tricky doing a trip around a large continent like the US where there is a large variation in climate in places that aren't that far away from each other.  The only options really are to pack and bring different clothes to wear, or pack a little lighter and buy the things you need when you get there (definitely my preferred option as a keen shopper).  Option C which I exercises on my Europe trip is bring everything you need but bring old clothes or stock up at kmart so you will not have to think twice about throwing stuff away if you have to later on in the trip.


Getting there

San Francisco has a major airport and is easy to connect to from most places in the US. United Airlines fly direct to San Francisco from Australia. Avoiding LAX is great if you need to and United airlines have really cheap flight specials although I'd suggest flying with anyone else.  More about that in later posts about trip planning.

To get from the airport to downtown SF, the BART (train) costs $8.25 USD one way.  Just pick the stop closest to your hotel then either walk/ tram or get a taxi (may be needed as the hills are STEEP with a suitcase).

We drove to San Fran from LA via the Pacific Coast Highway - I would highly recommend this part of the trip. We dropped our car at the airport however it is worth investigating drop off points for each car rental service as many companies will do airport drop off only and charge you a fee to drop the car in a city different to where you have rented it.  I will elaborate on this further in a later post on general overview of the US trip.



Geography

San Francisco is a large city and its suburbs or districts are really noticeably different depending on where you go.  You will notice the architecture, culture, affluence and inhabitants change before your eyes.  Public transport is not as easily navigated as other places in the US despite the fact that there are trams and cable cars throughout the city.  I've marked some of my recommendations on google maps below to give you an idea of which areas they are in.




Major districts we visited



  • Fisherman's Wharf
    • touristy neighbourhood with Pier 39, Sealions, launching point for Alcatraz, touristy seafood restaurants
  • Nob Hill/ Russian Hill
    • Affluent area with gorgeous views and cute houses, lots of steep hills, take your walking shoes.
  • Union Square
    • We stayed near here.  Is the financial centre, lots of chain retail shops.
  • The Haight
    • Home of the hippies, quirky shopping
  • Castro
    • Cultural centre for the Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, Transgender ... communities. Great café culture.
  • Golden Gate
    • Historical landmarks, the Golden Gate Bridge obviously, great views
Getting around

Public transport around SF city is called MUNI.  There are cable cars, buses, trains and it can be tricky to work out which one to use to get around.  To make your life easier, download the hopstop app. This app will change your life! Just plug in where you want to go and what time and it will give you step by step directions.  Make sure you save these so if you are out somewhere with no wifi you can get home.






Accomodation

Lots of accommodation is around the main tourist haunt - Fisherman's Wharf.  Decide where you will stay based on what you want to do (and your general fitness level! It is very hilly away from Fisherman's Wharf).  Accomodation in San Fran is also quite expensive so you may want to move further out to save a few $$.

I decided to stay in the Union Square area after doing a bit of research.  I loved this area in terms of accessibility.  Our accommodation was smack bang between a rich district and a poorer area so the scenery changed dramatically depending on whether you went up or down the hill.

After a lot of deliberation, we chose USA Hostels San Francisco.  Noooo, not a hostel I hear you say? This is one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in.  We had a private room with a private bathroom, television, microwave etc.  The hostel had free basic breakfast, facilities for doing washing and a private movie room. It wasn't noisy and there were hosted activities every day like bike tours, trivia etc.  The age range was mostly 20s-30s and again the location was perfect.  Cost was $125USD per night- an absolute steal.




Next trip I would stay here again or look at renting somewhere via Airbnb.  Do note before you book that it is illegal to sublet and therefore use Airbnb for short term rentals in SF (see separate post on Airbnb).

Things to do in San Francisco

I'd recommend doing a walking or bike tour to get your bearings - try a free tour by San Francisco city guides.  We spent the first day just wandering around, navigating trams, trolleys and buses and checking out some of the districts of SF.

The Embarcadero
  • The Embarcadero is the wharf area than runs from AT&T park in the southeast, along the water all the way to Fisherman's wharf.  It is a great spot to wander or jog along.
  • The pier numbers go up as you head towards Fisherman's Wharf, the Alcatraz boat leaving from Pier 33.  The Exploratorium is on Pier 15.
  • Visit the Farmers market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
  • The Plant Organic Cafe
    • We had a great dinner here
    • Pier 3






 Exploratorium
  • Located on Pier 15, the Exploratorium is a crazy science museum for adults and kids alike
  • Entry $15
Fisherman's Wharf/ Pier 39


  • The best thing about Pier 39? The Sealions! Grab a coffee and watch the humongous beasts play and fight for the best spot on the pontoons.  One of the many free tourist attractions in SF 




Musée Mécanique
  • Collection of more than 300 vintage mechanical arcade games.
  • Exchange your cash for pennies and enjoy!
  • Pier 45, Embarcadero, San Francisco





The Wave Organ
  • An acoustic sculpture that makes sound when the waves hit it. Great views of the bay and bridge from here.  Sounds best at high tide.
  • 83 Marina Green Drive, San Francisco


Telegraph Hill/ Coit Tower
  • Take the challenge and climb the steps of telegraph hill to Coit Tower- an art deco tower built in 1933.
  • Your quads will burn but the view is well worth the effort. $7USD to ascend the tower
  • Coit Tower: 1 Telegraph Hill Boulevard, SF



Castro
  • One of the first gay neighbourhoods in the US, the Castro remains a lively centre for LGBT.
  • The home of SF icon, politician and gay rights activist Harvey Milk, the first openly gay person to be elected to the public office in California.
  • Check our the Castro theatre, Harvey milk plaza, LGBT walk of fame, Harveys (formerly the Elephant walk- raided after the white night riots) and pink triangle park- a monument to gay prisoners persecuted in WWII.
  • Don't miss brunch at Café Flor
    • 2298 Market St, The Castro, San Francisco



  • Hot Cookie
    • Buy a delicious fallice shaped cookie
    • 407 Castro Street, The Castro, San Francisco



The Haight/ Ashbury
  • Catch the bus up to Haight/Ashbury and walk along Haight Street  (from Stanyan street- when you hit Divisadero street you are heading into the Castro.  This walk is great and you will lovely hilly views. along the way  




  • The Haight (prounced like "hate")is split into the Upper Haight and Lower Haight, the former has hippy roots and is a tourist destination whilst the latter retains its poorer black roots and is a bit dangerous at night.
  • Shopping
    • There are dozens of quirky shops, thrift stores and the like to keep anyone entertained.
    • Check out Amoeba music for vinyls and a large collection of indie music (1855 Haight Street)
    • Giant Robot- a weird Asian manga/ toy shop (618 Shrader street).

Alcatraz

  • Do not miss Alcatraz, it was my favourite part of San Francisco.  There is only one company that has tours to Alcatraz that actually docks on the island- don't be fooled!  
  • The tours book out very quickly so book your tickets ASAP (they are available 90 days in advance).
  • We did the night tour which is supposed to be the best as they let less people on at night and open up areas that can't be accessed during the day ($37USD pp).  They had different mini tours you could access - we went to the ghost stories tour where they lock you in solitary confinement aka 'the hole' and a tour of the hospital which is never open during the day.
  • The tour leaves from Pier 33. Try not to get carried away at the souvenir shop like I did.







The Painted Ladies

  • Row of Victorian houses painted in pastel colours, backdropped by sky scrapers. If you are an 80s or 90s baby, you may recognise them from the credits of Full House.
  • Steiner street San Francisco (at Alamo Square Park)



Union Square
  • Shopping at chain stores and Macy's (there's a cheesecake factory on the top floor!)
  • Check out little paris - visit claude and belden lanes just off union square with live jazz on weekends.


Downtown

  • Fino Bar and Ristorante
    • Lovely Italian food, book in advance
    • 624 Post Street, San Francisco

Mission Area

  • Visit the legendary Dottie's true blue cafe for breakfast (prepare to line up)
    • 28, 6th Street, San Francisco (just off market street)
Golden Gate Bridge

  • Do not leave San Francisco without walking or riding over the Golden Gate Bridge. The trip there has the most amazing views.
  • We hired pushbikes from Blazing Saddles (the main hire company in SF). You can do a guided tour or a self tour.  We picked up a map and did the self tour tide over the bridge to Sausalito. You can then catch the ferry back (the ques can be a little long so jump in the line as soon as you are ready to leave) 
  • Bikes are around $8 per hour. The ride was challenging and you will need a basic level of fitness. This was the most challenging tourist bike route we did in the US.
  • Pier 31 (also multiple other locations are SF- see their website)



AT&T Park
  •  Watch the SF Giants play basketball at AT&T Park.
  • 24 Willie Mays Plaza, San Francisco
Sausalito

  • Make the trip over the golden gate bridge to check out Sausalito- a cute little town with panoramic views and a ferry back to SF.
  • Lovely place to have a wander and a coffee.
Filbert Street

  • Filbert street is home to the steepest hill in San Francisco.  The normal streets are so ridiculously steep it is impossible to capture in a photograph.  This street takes it to a whole new level!


Trips from San Fran

  • San Fran is well positioned to allow for excellent day trips or ideally to venture out from your home base for a couple of days.
    • Try wine tasting in the Napa Valley
    • Visit the stunning Yosemite national park (we couldn't go because of bush fires!) 




San Francisco is great place to slow down the pace and just enjoy walking around and taking in the sights.  Take a warm jacket and enjoy all that SF has to offer.