One of the last places on earth untainted by tourism, the time to visit Cuba is now. Cuba has a complicated history including an infamous love/hate relationship with the USA. Since the end of the US trade embargo in 2015, you can feel the buzz of excitement on the street as things are gradually changing in Cuba. Cuba is one of the few true Soviet states that still exists in the world today.
Two minute history of Cuba
- Cuba was originally inhabited by various mesoamerican cultures
- Became a Spanish colony after the arrival of Christopher Colombus in 1492
- Tobacco and sugar cane were originally main exports and african slaves were imported for labour. Abolition of slavery occured in the 19th century.
- Cuba attacked by various pirates, the French, the English etc. due to the country's strategic position and profitable exports.
- Cuban revolution for independence from Spain founded by activist Jose Marti in late 1890s.
- Spain surrendered in 1898 and handed over Cuba to the USA.
- Cuba is a defecto US protectorate- no longer under Spanish control, but not independent either.
- During this time, Americans lived lives of excess in Cuba where casinos, gambling, alcohol and organised were crime rife. Professional gamblers and American gangsters enjoyed the Vegas like paradise during the era of the corrupt president Fulgencio Batista.
- Lawyer and activist Fidel Castro led the Cuban revolution from 1953-1959. Castro eventually overthrew the government headed by Fulgencio Batista in 1959.
- Fidel openly condemned American influence in Cuba and fought for a Cuba free from the USA.
- Relations between the US and Cuba declined rapidly until the US severed diplomatic relations in 1961. A trade embargo was imposed in 1962 which the US later pressured european countries to follow.
- Castros regimes brought about positive changes for Cubans with improved literacy , increased life expectancy, improved healthcare and education systems and investment into the arts.
- A crisis known as the "special period" occurred with trading blocked leading to blackouts and extreme food shortages. Cuba lost financial backing from the Soviet Union during this time. The US tightened their embargo and Cuba eventually responded by allowing some tourism to promote income and legalising US dollars (which were later made illegal again and replaced by the CUC).
- Fidel Castro withdrew from public life in 2006 after becoming unwell and resgined, replaced by his brother Raul Castro.
- The USA took Cuba off its list of 'state sponsors of terrorism' in 2015 and the countries red established diplomatic relations. The USA embassy reopened in August 2015.
Straight up - Cubans do not like to talk politics with tourists so it is good to be respectful of this.
Our experience of Cuba was both amazing and at times frustrating. The 50s timewarp means that there are frequent inefficiencies and difficulties with basic aspects of travel as a tourist. That said I have never seen anywhere like Cuba and absolutely loved the history, culture, setting and people. If you love a 5 star hotel, Cuba probably isn't for you but if you want a trip off the beaten track and something truly different I can highly recommend it.
We stayed in Havana and Varadero and visited Pinar Del Rio. I would definitely recommend staying in Vinales in Pinar Del Rio and trying to get to Trinidad or Santiago de Cuba if you have more time. We did a day trip to Pinar Del Rio and wish we could have stayed a few days there. Friends hired a car and drove to Trinidad and can highly recommend it.
Geography
Cuba is the Caribbean's largest island. Only 365km east of Miami, currently Cuba is still a difficult place to get to in many ways! More about that in 'getting there'. Cuba is culturally Latin American and a close neighbour to the Bahamas, Haiti and Jamaica.
Cuba is around 110 square kilometers (imagine it fitting into Victoria) and is split into east, central and west. Havana is the capital in the West whilst further east the tourists are few and far between.
Major cities/ areas
Havana
Havana's main districts include
Getting There
Our experience of Cuba was both amazing and at times frustrating. The 50s timewarp means that there are frequent inefficiencies and difficulties with basic aspects of travel as a tourist. That said I have never seen anywhere like Cuba and absolutely loved the history, culture, setting and people. If you love a 5 star hotel, Cuba probably isn't for you but if you want a trip off the beaten track and something truly different I can highly recommend it.
We stayed in Havana and Varadero and visited Pinar Del Rio. I would definitely recommend staying in Vinales in Pinar Del Rio and trying to get to Trinidad or Santiago de Cuba if you have more time. We did a day trip to Pinar Del Rio and wish we could have stayed a few days there. Friends hired a car and drove to Trinidad and can highly recommend it.
Geography
Cuba is the Caribbean's largest island. Only 365km east of Miami, currently Cuba is still a difficult place to get to in many ways! More about that in 'getting there'. Cuba is culturally Latin American and a close neighbour to the Bahamas, Haiti and Jamaica.
Cuba is around 110 square kilometers (imagine it fitting into Victoria) and is split into east, central and west. Havana is the capital in the West whilst further east the tourists are few and far between.
Major cities/ areas
- Havana - the bustling capital
- Pinar del Rio - lush countryside, outdoor activities and tobacco farming
- Trinidad - cobbled streets, old world beauty and a colonial settlement with world heritage listings
- Santiago de Cuba - the second largest city, stunning coastal setting rich in revolutionary history
- Varadero - man made beach resorts
- Cienfuegos - coastal town also with world heritage listings
Havana
Havana's main districts include
- Havana Veija - old Havana, a UNESCO world heritage site
- Centro Havana - central havana, the most densely populated area, borders old town
- Vedado- business district, home to the Plaza de la Revolucion
- Miramar - home to the mansions of the wealthy and many international embassies.
Getting There
Most visitors to Cuba will fly from either Mexico, The Caribbean, Canada (Toronto) and the UK (rare).
For Australians- the easiest route is usually via Cancun, Mexico City or Panama. Connecting flights do not always match up and prices are highly variable and generally expensive. There are no direct flights from the US at the time of this post but I am sure this will change very soon. There are also plans for access to cuba via ferry - multiple companies have the set up ready to go and are waiting for approvals from Cuba with estimated commencement in 2016. It would be estimated to be roughly a 10 hour trip. The major airport in Cuba is Jose Marti International Airport (near Havana). There is another airport near Varadero if that is where you are heading.
Luggage
Previously there were significant restrictions in regards to what foreigners could bring into Cuba. Eg/ no electronics, hair dryers, gps devices etc. One laptop, ipad, phone will get through fine. I took a hairdyer and straightener without issues, no one even checked our bags. Be prepared for the strange sight of the baggage carousel overflowing with locals bringing back items for their families - rice cookers, microwaves, airconditioners, shoes... You name it, someone is bringing it back to Cuba!
Make sure medications are in their original packaging with clear labelling and a letter from your doctor outlining any prescriptions. See smart traveler for more information before you go.
Tourist Card
To enter Cuba, Australian travellers must have a 'tourist card' (like a visa) which allows 30 days of travel in Cuba. This can be purchased via sending off your passport to the Cuban embassy for $110 (or $60 in person). The forms can be found on the Cuban embassy website here. It is possible to depart the country and return with another 30 day visa but two consecutive stays are the allowed maximum.
The alternate (and much cheaper/easier) way to get it is to purchase at the counter in the airport terminal on the way to Cuba. Airlines at Mexico City, Cancun and Panama at a minimum sell the tourist card - we paid $270MXN (about $20 AUD). We purchased ours from Aeromexico in the terminal near the gate after checking in etc. in Mexico City. There was a huge line and we found it took a long time to check bags and get to the gate area. My advice would be allow plenty of time (we allowed 3 hours so maybe 4?!)
tourist card
Proof of travel insurance
Foreigners need to bring proof of comprehensive travel insurance to enter Cuba.
Departure Tax
There is no departure tax any more as of 2015.
Currency
Currency is a little trickey to get your head around to begin with but once you have a plan of attack it is not so bad.
- Cuba has two currencies: the tourist CUC (Cuban convertible peso) and the local CUP (Cuban unconvertible peso).
- 1CUC= 26CUP.
- The CUCs ("cooks") are benchmarked at the same price as the USD so 1 CUC = 1 USD.
- Tourists can legally use CUP and it can be handy to have some to buy fruit at the local market etc. You wouldn't need to change more than a few CUP into CUCs.
CUC vs. CUP!
The other tricky thing was that many bank/credit cards will not currently work in Cuba. Visa is generally more reliable and many bank cards issued by or affiliated with American Banks (including most Australian banks) won't work. Prepaid travel cards will not work, nor will most traveller's cheques. Debit cards generally do not work. In summary- the best idea is to bring cash! Australians have reported the Bank Australia Visa card as a reliable option for withdrawing cash in Cuba. I tried all my cards out of interest and my NAB Visa Debit worked in Cuba. There are also plenty of ATMs in Havana.
Sometimes a card will work within a bank but not at the ATM. Expect long lines. The best part is you need to watch for the person who entered before you so you know when it is your turn at the cashier!
Exchanging Cash in Cuba
You cannot exchange AUD in Cuba and USD attract an additional conversion fee of 10%! Currencies that are exchangable are Euros, Canadian dollars or Pounds. There are plenty of CADECA (Casa de Cambio) government exchange houses in Havana that will give better rates than resorts or hotels. The next best option is the bank. Never exchange money with locals on the streets (I know you aren't that silly). You will need your passport to exchange money or withdraw at a bank.
It is illegal to take CUP outside of Cuba so if you have anything left over make sure you exchange it back before flying home.
Getting around
Buses in Cuba are one of the easiest ways to get around. Tourists can catch Viazul buses which are first class and (amazingly) fairly reliable. Check out the Viazul website here (english option is available). I would strongly recommend booking your bus tickets and printing them off in advance following a complicated bus ticket purchasing adventure we had on our trip! There was lots of waiting, a clerk filing her nails, going to the toilet, typing on a computer, filing her nails, going the toilet again etc- basically anything except serving customers whilst a line of 50+ people lined up to buy a ticket. The next counter had a man serving only customers who already had tickets (2 people). 1 minute before the departure time ... Surprise! Tickets now for sale! Avoid the stress and buy in advance trust me. The bus took an hour longer than it should have and made an extra stop but it was clean, safe and air conditioned. Viazul services the majority of Cuba and is very reasonably priced. eg/ Havana to Vinales = 12CUC. There are local busses (Guagua) but Tourists are generally recommended not to take them. if you do, be on the lookout for pickpockets.
Hop on hop off bus
There is a hop on hop off bus in Havana with two routes (previously three). The double decker is the T1/T2 combined route and the T3 is the bus to the beaches.
'Surlygerman' from lonelyplanet has kindly made this google map guide to the HOHO routes which is the most up to date. Legend is: Blue markers represent stops on route T1, Yellow markers represent stops on route T2, Green markers represent stops on route T3, Flag markers represent "intersection" stops where one can change between routes. Full thread is here. I had been planning to use the HOHO bus for transport to Vedado etc. but the route took about 1.5 hours in a loop and most of the stops were few and far between. Taxi would be the better option.
Cost is 5CUC per person for the day. Frequency is about every 30minutes from 9am-6pm. The top deck is the way to go but watch out for trees/low power lines (seriously!). The bus also stops at Necropolis Cristobal Colon - a striking cemetary that is absolutely huge.
Car Hire
Car hire is doable in Cuba but preparation is needed. Book ahead as there are not enough cars to meet the demand. You usually need to pay in Cash and will need your passport to hire the car. There is some good advice re: car hire on Cuba on the internet so do some research before you go. My research suggested roads can be complicated and that it is a much easier task for Spanish speakers or those with a local guide. It is also handy to be able to drive a manual and to know how to change a tyre. Buy a road map at the airport when you arrive and watch out for pot holes! There is some good advice in this post.
Taxis
Taxis are another way to get around in Cuba. They are generally affordable for short distances but can be pricey for longer distances. Eg/ Havana to Varadero is aproximately 100CUC (2 hour trip). You can also take tours and trips in vintage cars (generally a little more expensive than regular taxis). There are no safety standards so pick your vehicle carefully! One of our taxi had no seat belts, a hole in the floor and tape holding the door handles on haha. Taxi from the airport to Havana Vieja was $25CUC.
You can also catch a tourist 'coco taxi' short distances! Cuba Junky has some good information re: transport here.
Accomodation
The ultimate accomodation experience in Cuba is the 'Casa Particular' (private home in Spanish). Since 1997 the Cuban Government allowed locals to rent rooms in their homes as a source of income. Legal Casas will have a blue sign on their front door. Casas and rooms will be variable- from basic rooms with a bed, whole casas and western style airbnb apartments. Most casas will serve breakfast (often included in the cost or for a reasonable price). Hosts will often cook at your request for a fee.
I found the best websites to start with are 'Cuba Junky' and trip advsor. Cuba Junky gives a comprehensive list of Casas across Cuba with photos and reviews. I cross referenced these with their location and trip advisor reviews.
Be aware that is commonplace for Casa owners to want to fill up their rooms and let a guest stay on/ take an unexpected booking. This means you may book and show up to find that your room is full. Casa owners will always have alternate accommodation of the same or better standard available for you so be prepared to go with the flow. This is less likely to happen if you pay in advance (often not available) and I went with the tactic of sending frequent friendly emails to the Casa owners leading up to our trip! I am not usually one to need aircon but it was ridiculously humid and hot and I am extremely glad we had a room with aircon. Price for a casa particular ranges from 25-35CUC per night. What a bargain.
We stayed at Casa Cristo Colonial. I can highly recommend this Casa and its hosts Jevier and Belkis. We had most contact with Jevier who was an excellent host, spoke good english and gave us great advice. The breakfast there was $5CUC per person per day and was excellent. I highly recommend given the generally dire food situation (more about that later). The room was private with an ensuite and air conditioning. Price was $30CUC per night per room.
There are plenty of hotels in Havana- including the famous National Hotel (Vedado), the Irberostar Central (Havana Veija) and the Melia Havana (lovely hotel but located away from Havana Vieja in Miramar). The hotels are quite pricey and very dated with limited facilities. I decided to give the Casa particulares a go and it was well worth it- I would sincerely recommend to anyone and there is a price and Casa to suit everyone. If you are keen for a resort go to Varadero, otherwise the casa particulares are definitely the way to go.
In Varadero we stayed in Melia Las Americas. It was definitely one of the better hotels with a lovely beach and pools. The rooms were pretty standard and food was very average (same for everywhere in Cuba unfortunately). It was closest to the golf course if that is your thing. It was lovely to relax at the perfect beaches and there were lots of resort style activities (sports, cards, quiz, limbo competition etc.). It was definitely home to an older crowd- think european retirees, middle aged golf trips, unlimited mojitoes and cigars aplenty with a few honeymooners randomly thrown in. It was generally an older crowd everywhere in terms of travellers across Cuba.
Things to do
We spent four days in Havana, did a day trip to Pinar del Rio and spent four days in Varadero for our mandatory holiday relaxation time.
Havana
Havana Vieja
Centro/ Vedado
Plaza de la Revolucion
We decided to jog to the plaza for exercise (stupid?! probably) which took about 30 minutes. It eas ridiculously hotand humid, there are no good footpaths and locals were wondering what the hell we were doing. At one point we got chased by a clown jogging behind us blowing a whistle. Even stranger was the jumping castle at the blow up play centre he was supervising (see below). Subtle!
Fortresses
Day trips from Havana
Dining and nightlife
Opera
Hanoi
Other things
Who is Che Guevara
Che Guevara was a famous Cuban revoluionary. He was a military man, guerella commander, doctor, and diplomat from Argentinia. He met Fidel Castro in 1954 and joined his movement to become a key historical figure. Guevara played an important part in the guerilla war against Cuban dictator Fulgencio Batista and is famous for his strong marxist ideals. He tried to take the revolution to the world in 1965 but was eventually executed in Bolivia in 1967 post capture by CIA assisted Bolivian forces.
We spent only a short time in Cuba but were completely blown away. It is like nowhere I have ever been before (and probably no where else I will ever go). I would recommend it as a unique travel experience. I would emphasise the value in my experience of prebooking/ preplanning everything you can to make the trip easier and get the most out of it. I am definitely one for playing it by ear when travelling but in this case given the practical limitations you may miss out!
Hop on hop off bus
There is a hop on hop off bus in Havana with two routes (previously three). The double decker is the T1/T2 combined route and the T3 is the bus to the beaches.
'Surlygerman' from lonelyplanet has kindly made this google map guide to the HOHO routes which is the most up to date. Legend is: Blue markers represent stops on route T1, Yellow markers represent stops on route T2, Green markers represent stops on route T3, Flag markers represent "intersection" stops where one can change between routes. Full thread is here. I had been planning to use the HOHO bus for transport to Vedado etc. but the route took about 1.5 hours in a loop and most of the stops were few and far between. Taxi would be the better option.
T1
route map from parque central
Cost is 5CUC per person for the day. Frequency is about every 30minutes from 9am-6pm. The top deck is the way to go but watch out for trees/low power lines (seriously!). The bus also stops at Necropolis Cristobal Colon - a striking cemetary that is absolutely huge.
Necropolis Cristobal Colon
Car Hire
Car hire is doable in Cuba but preparation is needed. Book ahead as there are not enough cars to meet the demand. You usually need to pay in Cash and will need your passport to hire the car. There is some good advice re: car hire on Cuba on the internet so do some research before you go. My research suggested roads can be complicated and that it is a much easier task for Spanish speakers or those with a local guide. It is also handy to be able to drive a manual and to know how to change a tyre. Buy a road map at the airport when you arrive and watch out for pot holes! There is some good advice in this post.
Taxis
Taxis are another way to get around in Cuba. They are generally affordable for short distances but can be pricey for longer distances. Eg/ Havana to Varadero is aproximately 100CUC (2 hour trip). You can also take tours and trips in vintage cars (generally a little more expensive than regular taxis). There are no safety standards so pick your vehicle carefully! One of our taxi had no seat belts, a hole in the floor and tape holding the door handles on haha. Taxi from the airport to Havana Vieja was $25CUC.
You can also catch a tourist 'coco taxi' short distances! Cuba Junky has some good information re: transport here.
Accomodation
The ultimate accomodation experience in Cuba is the 'Casa Particular' (private home in Spanish). Since 1997 the Cuban Government allowed locals to rent rooms in their homes as a source of income. Legal Casas will have a blue sign on their front door. Casas and rooms will be variable- from basic rooms with a bed, whole casas and western style airbnb apartments. Most casas will serve breakfast (often included in the cost or for a reasonable price). Hosts will often cook at your request for a fee.
I found the best websites to start with are 'Cuba Junky' and trip advsor. Cuba Junky gives a comprehensive list of Casas across Cuba with photos and reviews. I cross referenced these with their location and trip advisor reviews.
Be aware that is commonplace for Casa owners to want to fill up their rooms and let a guest stay on/ take an unexpected booking. This means you may book and show up to find that your room is full. Casa owners will always have alternate accommodation of the same or better standard available for you so be prepared to go with the flow. This is less likely to happen if you pay in advance (often not available) and I went with the tactic of sending frequent friendly emails to the Casa owners leading up to our trip! I am not usually one to need aircon but it was ridiculously humid and hot and I am extremely glad we had a room with aircon. Price for a casa particular ranges from 25-35CUC per night. What a bargain.
We stayed at Casa Cristo Colonial. I can highly recommend this Casa and its hosts Jevier and Belkis. We had most contact with Jevier who was an excellent host, spoke good english and gave us great advice. The breakfast there was $5CUC per person per day and was excellent. I highly recommend given the generally dire food situation (more about that later). The room was private with an ensuite and air conditioning. Price was $30CUC per night per room.
In Varadero we stayed in Melia Las Americas. It was definitely one of the better hotels with a lovely beach and pools. The rooms were pretty standard and food was very average (same for everywhere in Cuba unfortunately). It was closest to the golf course if that is your thing. It was lovely to relax at the perfect beaches and there were lots of resort style activities (sports, cards, quiz, limbo competition etc.). It was definitely home to an older crowd- think european retirees, middle aged golf trips, unlimited mojitoes and cigars aplenty with a few honeymooners randomly thrown in. It was generally an older crowd everywhere in terms of travellers across Cuba.
Melia Las Americas Varadero
Things to do
We spent four days in Havana, did a day trip to Pinar del Rio and spent four days in Varadero for our mandatory holiday relaxation time.
Havana
Havana Vieja
- Havana Vieja "old town" is a great place to stay in Havana and is easily walkable by foot
- There are many squares and buildings to visit, some of my favourites were:
- Plaza de Armas- one of my favourite squares, a social hub with restaurants, the city museum ( Museo de la Ciudad) and a fountain.
- Castillo de la Real Fuerza- Near plaza de Armas is this fort built to defend against pirates! Moat, drawbridge at all.
- Catedral de San Cristobal - stiking baroque church
- Plaza Vieja - "old square". Another historic plaza with cafes, restaurants and bars,
- Calle Obispo
- the main tourist haunt of Havana Vieja filled with bars, restaurants, CADECA etc.
- Parque Central
- The Parque Central is a
- See the men having a heated conversation/ yelling, they are diehard baseball fans (baseball= "pelota"). They will get up in each others faces but the unspoken rule is no fights.
- Sit under the trees and do some quality people watching. See the old lady/man selling weird rolled up paper cones- they're just nuts!
- There are always lots of vintage cars to negotiate a tour with (1,2,3 hours etc)
- This is where you can catch the hop on hop off bus from too
- Passeo del Prado
- the street that divides Havana Vieja and Cento Havana.
- Lovely pedestrian arcade with places to sit and enjoy the atmosphere.
- Partagas Cigar Factory
- The factory is closed but the shop selling authentic cigars is open. The VIP room looked intriguing.
- Calle Industria 520, Havana, Cuba (not too far from the capitol building).
- El Capitolo
- Make sure to do a walk by the impressive capitol building. Currently undergoing length renovations.
- 422 Industria, La Habana
- The Malecon
- This waterfront promenade stretches for 8km from Havana Vieja in the east to Vedado in the west. Really picturesque spot with many tumbledown houses and buildings- great spot for a photo.
- It is really popular with locals especially in the evening - meeting lovers, having a solitary beer/cigar etc. Great spot to watch the sunset. We walked from old town to the historic Hotel Nacional (on the waterfront at the border of Centro and Vedado) which was about 2.5-3km.
- A must see
Centro/ Vedado
- Much less touristy, these suburbs have lots of shops, restaurants etc. and a high population density. I would have liked to explore here further and many of the restaurant recommendations I researched prior were in this area.
- Parque Copellia
- Cubans are obsessed with icecream and where better to try the locals' favourite food than at rhe Copellia factory. Fidel commissioned the icecream parlour to introduce Cubans to icecream.
- This park is packed at night with locals and tourists alike queing for icecream. The store accepts CUP and CUC but the polite thing to do is join the local queue and pay in CUP.
- Hotel Nacional de Cuba
- This historic hotel is a fantastic spot to have a cocktail (be prepared to pay a little extra). Make sure you get a seat on the outdoor terrace with the gorgeous views back across the Malecon. You can also stay here (pricey!)
- There are wifi internet cards sold here upstairs from the lobby in the telecommunications centre. It was about 6-7CUC per hour from memory.
- Calle 21 + O, Vedado
- Tropicana
- Havana's most famous Cabaret show. Pricey with expensive drinks but a fantastic show if cabaret is your thing.
- Tickets from 75USD+
- 72 A, La Habana, Cuba (near avendida 71)
Plaza de la Revolucion
- This square is a separate suburb of Havana and is a popular spot with tourists
- The square contains the massive Jose Marti Memorial - a momument to one of the national heroes of Cuba. There is a huge 109m tower and 18m statue up on a hill opposite revolution square.
- Opposite the memorial are government offices with murals of Cuban revolutionaries - Che Guevara with the quote 'Hasta Victoria Siempre' (under the everlasting victory) and Camilo Cienfuegos with the quote "Vas vien Fidel"(you're doing fine Fidel).
- Easiest way to get here is on your vintage car tour or via the hop on hop off bus. Its about 5-10 minutes drive from Havana Vieja.
We decided to jog to the plaza for exercise (stupid?! probably) which took about 30 minutes. It eas ridiculously hotand humid, there are no good footpaths and locals were wondering what the hell we were doing. At one point we got chased by a clown jogging behind us blowing a whistle. Even stranger was the jumping castle at the blow up play centre he was supervising (see below). Subtle!
Fortresses
- We visited the two fortresses across the sea from Havana Vieja- you can walk between them.
- Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro (Morro Castle)
- This fortress was built 1630 and held strong for over a century until Havana was captured by the British following an attack on El Morro and penetrated its weak spot on the inland side It took a 44 day siege but the British were in 1762.
- Entry cost is $2CUC to climb the lighthouse.
- Look familiar? Morro has been featured in playstation games Assassin's Creed and Driver 2.
- Fortezale de San Carlos de La Cabana
- This massive fortress was built to protect Havana in 1763-1774.
- It was built so well it was never attacked by invaders! It is now restored for tourists.
- Take a taxi to the other side of the water via the tunnel near the Malecon. The price of taxis back are inflated. There is a ceremony at 9pm where actors in period clothing re-enact the firing of the canons. Admission is 6-8 CUC.
- Everyone in tripadvisor references a tourguide 'Jorge' who you apparently can just email (jorgeguide2004@yahoo.es). I had planned to do this but there was very limited internet access making it impossible to organise anything from Havana. Lesson learned- arrange in advance from home.
- Beaches
- Playas de Este are a easy day trip from Havana.
- Jump on a T3 bus from parque central (not the double decker one) it should say ' Playa Santa Maria' on the front, $5CUC for the day (hang onto your ticket for the return trip). It is about a 45 minute bus ride from Havana. The bys makes three beach stops: Villa Megano, Hotel Tropicoco and Hotel Atlantico. Check with the bus driver what time the bus returns as published timetables are not always accurate.
- The beaches from west to east are: Tarara, El Mégano, Bacuranao, Santa María del Mar; Boca Ciega; Guanabo; La Veneciana & Brisas del Mar.
- There are a few restaurants on the main road but pretty scarce so take a picnic/drinks. You can rent a deckchair/umbrella for a few CUC each.
- The beach near the hotel 'Residenze las Terrazzas Playa del Este' is rumoured to be one of the best and quietest away from the main tourist area.
- Pinar del Rio
- We did an arranged day trip to Pinar del Rio visiting a rum factory, tobacco farm, Vinales, prehistoric mural, weird underground river etc. Very touristy but good to get out and see a bit more of Cuba. Was about $50CUC each including lunch and took all day. I loved seeing the tobacco farmer roll the habaneros (cigars) and hear about the competition for the best crop in the region and the production process. The stop at the 'prehistoric mural' was wayyyy too long. Another reason for chartering a private tour or staying longer and exploring yourself.
- This tour is very similar or this one has a 1 hour horse ride included. I'd recommend staying in Vinales and seeing things at your own pace over a few days- it allows you do so some of the other fun outdoorsy activities like hikes, horse riding etc. Vinales is also a rockclimbing mecca.
prehistoric mural
cave through which you ride in a speedboat and see rock formations in the shapes of things
Pinar del Rio region from Los Jazmines hotel
- La Terrazas
- See this artist colony in the lush hills
- Hershey train
- Enjoy the four hour trip to Matanzas with picturesque scenery on this train established by Hershey's (of chocolate fame!)
- Catch the train from the Casablanca train station (take a taxi there from Havana or catch the ferry across the bay). More info here.
- More day trip ideas on lonely planet here.
Dining and nightlife
If you are planning to travel to Cuba you likely already know- it is not really a culinary destination.
Due to the restrictions placed upon Cubans due to socialism there is very limited variety in markets and locals rely on their ration books. The rations are based on 50s nutritional ideas- no dairy, barely a vegetable in sight and no spices. The result- pork, rice, plantains are the basis of most meals. Starchy, greasy and flavourless (except salt+++). Post revolutionary inventions include the cheese pizza and ham and cheese sandwiches which are edible but pretty average.
How to get the best traditional Cuban food? Ask your hosts in your Casa to cook a meal for you. Often they are happy to do so at a costs. The breakfast we had was delicious and very generous for $5CUC.
The restaurants I researched carefully that had great reviews and promising sounding dishes (salads, smoothies etc!) were fully booked or despite multiple trips/ maps/ asking locals etc. we could not find them (despite having reviews from the day before). The fourth time you would walk past the roller door that was not even noticeable before was up and it was open (when on your way to the airport haha). We had low expectations and we were not surprised.
Paladares are private restaurants that are family run. In 1993 paladares were made legal due to economic reforms. They usually have premium ingredients and the legal paladars are taxed very highly making them expensive at times. The Paladares have strict rules to abide by set by the government eg/ they are supposed to cook only Cuban food (no lobster or chicken breast as these are reserved for tourist hotels!), set number of seats, who could be employed etc. We found many of the paladares did serve luxury foods like lobster and general quality was better than the state run restaurants (although still not great).
I did a lot of research before we left to give us the best chance of not having terrible food the entire trip. I was also a bit concerned because I don't eat meat and in Cuba apparently vegetarian means 'just a little meat' and everything is cooked in pig fat. Most of the restaurants in the tourist areas (around Calle Obispo) are terrible. Safe options for me were randomly ordering fruit salad and bread for dinner. There were very few meat free bean dishes, lots of plain salty rice and cheese pizza. I did take proteins bars and would highly recommend doing the same. Even instant soups of just something normal to eat! There are markets where you can buy fruit and veggies with CUP. There were also little mini marts which sold drinks, razors etc. Always really busy and full of locals buying soft drink and beer! On that note- try the weird cuban coca cola- not bad.
Paladar Torreson
Dona Eutemia
La Dominica
San Cristobal Paladar
Due to the restrictions placed upon Cubans due to socialism there is very limited variety in markets and locals rely on their ration books. The rations are based on 50s nutritional ideas- no dairy, barely a vegetable in sight and no spices. The result- pork, rice, plantains are the basis of most meals. Starchy, greasy and flavourless (except salt+++). Post revolutionary inventions include the cheese pizza and ham and cheese sandwiches which are edible but pretty average.
How to get the best traditional Cuban food? Ask your hosts in your Casa to cook a meal for you. Often they are happy to do so at a costs. The breakfast we had was delicious and very generous for $5CUC.
The restaurants I researched carefully that had great reviews and promising sounding dishes (salads, smoothies etc!) were fully booked or despite multiple trips/ maps/ asking locals etc. we could not find them (despite having reviews from the day before). The fourth time you would walk past the roller door that was not even noticeable before was up and it was open (when on your way to the airport haha). We had low expectations and we were not surprised.
Paladares are private restaurants that are family run. In 1993 paladares were made legal due to economic reforms. They usually have premium ingredients and the legal paladars are taxed very highly making them expensive at times. The Paladares have strict rules to abide by set by the government eg/ they are supposed to cook only Cuban food (no lobster or chicken breast as these are reserved for tourist hotels!), set number of seats, who could be employed etc. We found many of the paladares did serve luxury foods like lobster and general quality was better than the state run restaurants (although still not great).
I did a lot of research before we left to give us the best chance of not having terrible food the entire trip. I was also a bit concerned because I don't eat meat and in Cuba apparently vegetarian means 'just a little meat' and everything is cooked in pig fat. Most of the restaurants in the tourist areas (around Calle Obispo) are terrible. Safe options for me were randomly ordering fruit salad and bread for dinner. There were very few meat free bean dishes, lots of plain salty rice and cheese pizza. I did take proteins bars and would highly recommend doing the same. Even instant soups of just something normal to eat! There are markets where you can buy fruit and veggies with CUP. There were also little mini marts which sold drinks, razors etc. Always really busy and full of locals buying soft drink and beer! On that note- try the weird cuban coca cola- not bad.
market near plaza del cristo
minimart
Paladar Torreson
- Our favourite paladar in Havana- right on the malecon near Havana Vieja. They were great with making vegetarian options and it was the best meal we had with vegetable paste dips, rice with actual vegetables and flavourful risotto and well cooked meat. The view is excellent too.
- Malecon n0 27 | Prado y Carcel, Havana, Cuba
Dona Eutemia
- We tried to go here but it was fully booked, book in advance. Great reviews online, absolutely packed.
- Callejon del Chorro # 60-C | Plaza de la Catedral
La Dominica
- We had food here twice because I was sick of trying to find anything vegetarian. Basic average touristy Italian - a lifesaver when you can't do salty rice anymore.
- Habana Vieja | O'Reilly e Mercaderes, Havana, Cuba
San Cristobal Paladar
- Supposed to be the best paladar in Havana. Fancy, pricey with excellent service and fare
- San Rafael No 469, E/ Lealtad y Campanario, Havan
- We ate here one day because it was near us - fruit salad was a lifesaver for me! Sangria was delicious.
- Monserrate, 437 Esq Teniente Rey, Havana 1090
- Italian. Good reviews, we didn't make it all the way to Vedado to try.
- 13 St Between F and G | #406, Vedado, Havana 10400
Opera
- Supposed to have good vege options, again is in Vedado (and is probably worth the trip).
- Booking essential.
- Calle 5ta, 204 e/ E y F. Vedado | Vicino Al Hotel Presidente, Havana
Hanoi
- No asian food, the only Vietnamese thing about this restaurant is the name.
- Cheap drinks, Cuban food and of course music.
- cnr Brasil & Bernaza | Havana Vieja,
- El Chanchullero
- Cheap drinks in a non touristy part of Havana Vieja. Is near the restaurant Hanoi (see above) if you want dinner afterwards or they do serve food here too.
- Teniente Rey, 457A bajos | Plaza El Cristo Habana
- Casa de la Musica de Centro Habana
- is the place to be if you like to dance Salsa.
- Popular nights are Thursdays and Fridays- this is the time to come for salsa in a relaxed environment. Wednesdays is Western pop so don't go then!
- Cover charge $2-5CUC
- Ave. 20 No. 3308 esq. a 35, Miramar, Havana
- La Cecilia
- Cuba's current premiere outdoor nightclub venue. WIll draw thousands of locals for large events. Is closed on rainy nights. Cover charge $5-10CUC
- Open Friday-Sunday, 10pm-3am
- 5ta Avenida y 110, Miramar, Havana
- Diablo Tun Tun
- One of the least touristy clubs in Havana, very popular with locals, cheap drinks.
- Calle 20, corner 35, Miramar, Havana
- Museo del Ron
- Try the rum then have a drink or watch the outdoors 50's Cuban music show called Buena Vista
- Address: Avenida del Puerto 262, esq. Sol, Habana
- Hotel Nacional de Cuba
- Definitely stop off for a mojito on the deck as mentioned previously!
- Calle 21 y O, Vedado
Other things
Who is Che Guevara
Che Guevara was a famous Cuban revoluionary. He was a military man, guerella commander, doctor, and diplomat from Argentinia. He met Fidel Castro in 1954 and joined his movement to become a key historical figure. Guevara played an important part in the guerilla war against Cuban dictator Fulgencio Batista and is famous for his strong marxist ideals. He tried to take the revolution to the world in 1965 but was eventually executed in Bolivia in 1967 post capture by CIA assisted Bolivian forces.
We spent only a short time in Cuba but were completely blown away. It is like nowhere I have ever been before (and probably no where else I will ever go). I would recommend it as a unique travel experience. I would emphasise the value in my experience of prebooking/ preplanning everything you can to make the trip easier and get the most out of it. I am definitely one for playing it by ear when travelling but in this case given the practical limitations you may miss out!
